After packing up this morning we hit the trail for 3 miles to the first water. We were running lower than usual and I had drained my main water bag coming into camp last night, so we were eager to refill. It had been a warm night even at our elevation and by the time we set off at 7 the sun was already intense. Looked like it would be a hot day…
Luckily the trail was pretty gentle as we headed towards our stop. It was nice to be able to hike in the shade when we skirted the western side of the ridges. In no time at all we arrived at the side trail for trail angel Mike’s house. It was well signed, complete with a little solar light for hikers arriving after dark. We headed up the steep spur to his driveway, past the massive hiker-use water tank, and down into paradise.
As we came into the yard we were greeted by a bunch of other hikers, Mike and Nina, and their dog. We instantly felt at home as we introduced ourselves to Matt, Hope, Bunk, Yardsale, and U-turn. Yardsale kept insisting that we had just earned our trail nicknames – Perfect Timing – because we had arrived moments before breakfast was ready. Like good hobbits, this was second breakfast for us and it blew our morning granola out of the water. On his enormous outdoor griddle Mike had prepared the best fry-up we’d ever had – meat, eggs, potato, onion, griddled tortillas, and pancakes with butter, syrup and STRAWBERRIES. That, plus coffee, cold pink lemonade, and great conversation made our morning more wonderful than it already had been. It instantly reminded me of Big Lar’s cabin in Wisconsin – sit around and eat lots of great food, have your smoke, and shoot the breeze with a bunch of friendly people. Thanks so much to Mike for all he does for us dirty hikers!
After eating we refilled our water, paid the love forward with a donation to the food jar, and reluctantly headed back to the trail. Our only regret was that we couldn’t take a zero there. That would have meant incredible BBQ chicken and a luxurious night in the RV Mike keeps for hikers. Unfortunately, we had to make miles in order to reach another well-loved trail destination tomorrow – the Paradise Cafe. Besides amazing burgers, the place is an important water stop in a dry stretch. They normally have a spigot outside for hikers to use but we have heard that it froze in a recent storm. Since they are only open until 3 tomorrow and closed on Tuesday, we have to get within striking distance today. Sometimes on the trail it doesn’t feel like we’re hiking the crest so much as hiking from one wonderful food stop to the next.
We hit the trail with Hope, Bunk and U-turn on our heels and started right up a fairly steep climb. Nothing like a hearty second breakfast to give us hiking power. Before we knew it we had reached the top and were treated to a wonderful view of the Anza Valley and a taste of things to come. In the far distance we could see Mt. San Gorgonio. Closer in was Mt. San Jacinto, which we will skirt after our stop in Idyllwild. There is an alternate trail route that goes right to the top – maybe we’ll take it. As we descended steeply, losing all the elevation we just gained (not an uncommon phenomenon out here) I thought I could see the Salton Sea through a gap to the east.
We descended more and more and it got hotter with every step. By the time we leveled out it was oppressive. Thank goodness for our umbrellas and our new gloves. The gloves especially have been great – I wore them all day yesterday and even fell asleep with them on. We slogged across another desert floor toward a tiny creek, hoping to wet down our hats and gloves before finishing the trek to the next reliable water. Unfortunately, the creek was nothing more than damp dirt and we had to go on dry. The thermometer on my watch read 90 degrees under the shade of my umbrella. I’m glad we’re hiking this now and not a week later like everyone who started at kickoff…
Finally we reached the turnoff for the Tule Spring spigot. After a steep quarter mile down we reached our second oasis of the day after Mike’s – shade, a hose spitting out cold water, and all the folks we had met that morning. We instantly headed for the water. I soaked my shirt, head, gloves and hat. It felt amazing and it was so hot out that I dried in minutes. As we sat around and bonded over the challenge of this last section we cooked a lunch of chili and noodles and waited out the rest of the afternoon heat. After a while Alan from CO showed up. We had hiked around the same schedule as him the first week and had seen him at kickoff. He had already done his 20 miles for the day so he was there for the night as the rest of us packed up and moved on.
Rejuvenated by the rest and the food and hiking in the cool of early evening, we set out to make a quick few miles before dark. As we hiked up the fairly way trail we came across a fallen GPS messenger unit similar to the SPOT device we carry. We suspect it belongs to Yardsale and will carry it until we can find its owner. A little explanation is called for here – Yardsale got his trail nickname from he fact that every time he stops to dig something out of his pack, things go flying everywhere. Yesterday, back before we ever met this group, we came across a nice titanium spork lying on the ground. Since we were on private property we left it there but found out this morning that it belonged to Yardsale, who was apparently being true to his name. I felt bad for not bringing it up the trail with us. Hopefully this GPS unit is his and I can make amends by returning a piece of safety gear that costs quite a bit more than an eating utensil.
We passed Hope, Bunk and U-turn at Nance Creek and pushed on for a little longer to set ourselves up to hit the cafe early tomorrow afternoon. We’ll get up a bit earlier than usual to make sure we can do the remaining 11 miles before it gets too hot. Gorging ourselves with our new group should be a pleasant way to wait out the afternoon heat. After that, we will make a few more miles towards town in hopes of reaching it on Wednesday or Thursday. It was another great day and we are thrilled to have met so many cool people. Still having a great time and getting stronger every day…
– Posted from the PCT